I`ve realised that trying to write a restaurant review after some time has passed is very difficult. It seems that you loose the vividness of taste a lot faster than other senses. For example, travelling memories are different, they stay fresh longer and it is easier to evoke the excitement of those days. It means that the food must be extraordinary in order for you to remember it regardless of how much time has passed. I collect those extraordinary moments when you bite into something and tears come to your eyes like I would gemstones. For example, when someone says octopus and you remember that restaurant in that seaside fishing village. The sea breeze brushes your face and a subtle salty flavour melts on your tongue matching nicely with the perfectly chilled white wine.
Biko is an upscale restaurant in Polanco which offers gatchupa (gatxupa) cuisine. Gatchupa is a mix between mexican and basque cuisines. Perhaps they made up the name because I could not find it online – so bravo for being original.
This restaurant is number 43 on the list of The world`s 50 best restaurants. They are very creative and the Mexican-basque mix has worked out very well for them. The place is very simple leaving one to suspect that they want the food to do the talking. Our table was not very well positioned, it was kind of isolated and I think that at every restaurant of such a level there should be no such thing as a poorly positioned table.
We focused on the part of the menu which is called ¨Lo de hoy¨ because the dishes from that part appealed to us most.
I`ll start with the best one – Alcachofas Coliflor y Iberico (Artichokes, Cauliflower and Iberian ham). A brilliant combination of weightless cauliflower puree, succulent artichokes and crunchy quinoa.
Juicy Hamachi fish is one of my latest discoveries. The fish is so good that I think you`d have to try hard to screw it up. So, their Hamachi curado con manzana was predictably amazing. Thank you guys for adding that sour touch to the dish, it took hamachi to the next level for me.
Camarones con polvo de su cabeza (Shrimps with dust made of their heads:)). I`d give a yes to the fresh, beautiful and sophisticated flavour of the shrimps but no to the potato. Maybe it was only for decoration because that rectangular thing is the potato and it was undercooked. We decided to continue with fish and ordered Pescado verde apio (Green celery fish) and Pescado con rajas cremosas (Fish with sliced poblano pepper and cream). The sauces and side ingredients of both dishes were mind blowing. A lot of time has passed since we went, but I still remember the taste of the sauces. However, the fish itself was a little dry for my taste. I am not sure which fish was it, perhaps huachinango (red snapper)?
I can’t omit this wonderful hearty plate – Hongos y salsa arrochera de mejillones (Mushrooms and mussel broth sauce) with huitlacoche and piñon (pine seeds). Huitlacoche is a Mexican delicacy, it is corn fungus.:) Sounds appetising, right? It is truly exquisite though.
This dish with Mexican heart is a comfort food – you feel warm, cozy and satisfied after eating it.
If you appreciate creative cuisine, but something that is not too molecular, this place is for you. Also if you are in search of fresh innovative combinations and are curious about Mexican cuisine you will enjoy it a lot.